Food for fifty, Dreams for free

Hungry kya? In this city of steel and concrete when both stomach and pocket are almost empty, where to go? – that is the question. A trip back in memory lane – and a look at the watch before heading of into the lane, or the lanes of Gurgaon – for some ‘pet puja’ .

Early in the morning, 7 or 8 and the place to visit is Jain Kachori Wala, opposite the Girl’s school in Jacumpura (or Jacobpura). Ritu Verma is there all the way from Sohna Road, digging into hot bedmi sabzi, the traditional food of banias but now enjoyed by everyone. Also on the menu are khasta kachori. All this lasts upto 12 noon when the shop downs its shutters till tomorrow. But the regulars do not wait for tomorrow! Monu Jain does not go long back into time – just about 15 years back when he opened in a khokha just across the road and has now shifted to a pucca shop. His brother sells chat from a rehri just nearby. Ask him the reason for his success and he says, “Don’t ask me, ask my customers”.

11 in the morning and still hungry! Time to head to Baljees in Sadar Bazar, near Sohna Chowk, and the hot samosa chole or the pindi wale chole bhature or their speciality – paneer pakora! Raj Kumar, the courteous owner sits behind the till reminiscing 1970 when his elder brother Bal Krishan opened shop in Gurgaon. From then to 1998 was a long journey when his favourite samosa got the first prize in the food competition at Netherlands. Belonging to the erstwhile Dera Ghazi Khan in now Pakistan, he says that his pindi chole are the original recipe from that region. A contented man, he has no plans of opening a chain of fast food joints across the city and dropping his standards. Customer satisfaction is his aim and he knows he will achieve it with personal attention at only a single outlet.

1 in the afternoon and time for something sweet. Saunter on to Sardarjee Jalebi wale in Sadar Bazar, just opposite the Bata showroom, and one finds a crowd jostling for space in the shop where hot, piping, dripping with syrup jalebis are being dished out from the kadahi. Jagmohan Singh sits cross legged, handing over the packets – a kilo here, 250 grams there, another order for 20 kgs!! This shop goes really back into history – back to 1947 when his grandfather, Ram Singh, started the business in Gurgaon. He was dishing out hot jalebis to the people of Sargodha before. Jagmohan remembers coming to the shop after school and helping his father since he was in the 3^rd standard. Honesty, customer satisfaction and a lack of hurry are the three mantras for the perfect taste of his jalebis and his success.

5 in the evening and time for some snacks. Behind the post office in a shop in Janta Market is Gandhi Ji Pakore Wale. Started in 1948 by Pehlad Gandhi, just arrived from Dera Ghazi Khan in a shack near the post office, it is now home to the best pakoras this part of the country. Asked to comment of the secret of the tasty pakoras, Kiran, the grandson says that the pakora is a food item unique to India, unlike other fast foods. Homemade masalas, a traditional recipe and pure mustard oil to fry the pakoras, that is what makes them special. Along with his son now working in the shop it makes the fourth generation running the shop. They do not employ any workers in the cooking, preferring to cook themselves. And no hurry please, customers in a hurry are not served there.

11 at night and the hunger pangs are again gnawing the innards. But Gudgawa is all asleep. Emerge from the sands of time and into the Gurgaon of today – just opposite Park Plaza hotel Jai Parkash, all the way from Bihar is frying parathas in the brrrriting cold. Here for the last three years, he and his two helpers start their business at 8 in the evening and are open till about 2 – 3 in the morning. Aaloo pyaaz, aaloo gobhi, egg – fried parathas dished out in front of the patrons. And he has increased competition for himself – by opening a branch just across the road! Customers come in big cars, small cars, bikes, rickshaws, call centre cabs, anything. And go back satisfied.

6 in the morning – well, it’s another day!